Lamb Shank Kulma: A Tausug Recipe from Southern Philippines

A guest recipe by Arion Marin (@arionzmarin) featuring La Carne lamb shanks

The Story Behind the Dish

Kulma is one of the great dishes of Tausug cuisine; the food tradition of the Tausug people of Sulu, in the southernmost reaches of the Philippine archipelago. It's a dish that carries centuries of history in every bite.

The Tausug have long been known as seafarers and traders, and Sulu sat at the crossroads of a vast maritime network connecting the Philippines, Borneo, Java, and the Arabian Peninsula. That history of exchange is written directly into the food. Kulma's warm spice blend, the kind that combines curry, cinnamon, and chili into something deeply aromatic- reflects the influence of Arab, Indian, and Malay traders who passed through these waters for hundreds of years. The coconut milk is unmistakably Southeast Asian. The peanut butter, Maranao in spirit, adds a richness that makes the sauce cling to the meat in the most satisfying way.

Kulma is traditionally made with beef or goat, braised low and slow in that fragrant, spiced coconut sauce until it can barely hold itself together. It's a dish made for gatherings- the kind of food that fills a kitchen with an incredible smell hours before anyone sits down to eat.

Arion's version uses lamb shanks from La Carne, and it's a brilliant swap. Lamb's natural richness and the slight gaminess of the shank hold up beautifully against the bold spice base and the lemongrass-spiked coconut sauce. The result is deeply savoury, warmly spiced, and absolutely made for a generous pile of steamed rice.

A Note on the Lamb

Lamb shanks are one of the great braising cuts — all bone, collagen and working muscle, which means they reward patience. The long, slow cook breaks down all that connective tissue into rich, glossy gelatin that thickens the sauce naturally and gives the meat a silky, fall-off-the-bone texture. You simply cannot rush them, and you shouldn't try.

If you're cooking this for the first time, don't be put off by the ingredient list. The method is genuinely straightforward — marinate, sear, build the sauce, braise, reduce. The hard work is just waiting. To watch the full recipe video click here.

Lamb Shank Kulma

Serves 4 · Prep 30 minutes + marinating · Cook 3 hours (or 1 hour pressure cooker)

Ingredients

For the lamb

• 4 lamb shanks
• 4 tbsp curry powder
• 2 tsp paprika
• 2 tsp cinnamon
• 2 tsp salt
• 1 tsp black pepper
• 2–3 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp neutral oil

For the kulma sauce

• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 5 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised
• 400–500 ml beef or lamb broth
• 4 tbsp peanut butter
• 3 tbsp tomato paste
• 400 ml coconut milk
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1–2 red chilies, optional

To garnish

• Roasted peanuts
• Fresh cilantro
• Fried shallots
• Red chilies

Method

1. Marinate the lamb
Mix the curry powder, paprika, cinnamon, salt, pepper, and lemon juice together into a thick paste. Rub it all over the lamb shanks, getting into every surface. Leave to marinate for at least 30 minutes — longer if you have the time. Overnight in the fridge is ideal and will give you a deeper, more developed flavour.

2. Sear
Heat the oil in a large cast iron pan or heavy-based pot over high heat. Sear the lamb shanks on all sides until deeply golden. Don't rush this step — a good crust builds flavour that carries through the entire dish. Remove the lamb and set aside.

3. Build the aromatics
In the same pan, reduce the heat to medium and cook the onion until soft and golden, scraping up any brown bits from the bottom as you go. Add the garlic and optional chilies and cook until fragrant, about 1–2 minutes.

4. Build the sauce
Return the lamb to the pan. Pour in the broth, then add the peanut butter, tomato paste, coconut milk and lemongrass. Stir everything together until well combined.

5. Cook low and slow
Pressure cooker: Cook on High for 45 minutes, then allow a 15-minute natural pressure release.
Oven braise: Cover tightly and cook at 160°C for 2½ to 3 hours, until the lamb is very tender and falling off the bone. Check occasionally and add a splash of broth if needed.

6. Reduce the sauce
Remove the lamb shanks and the lemongrass from the pan. Simmer the sauce uncovered over medium heat until it thickens and becomes glossy. Taste and adjust seasoning.

7. Finish and serve
Return the lamb to the pan and coat generously in the kulma sauce. Serve immediately, garnished with roasted peanuts, fresh cilantro, fried shallots and sliced red chilies. A large bowl of steamed white rice is non-negotiable.

Tips for the Best Result

Don't skip the sear. The Maillard reaction on the outside of the lamb builds a layer of flavour that permeates the entire braise. Take your time here.

Marinate overnight if you can. The spice paste penetrates deeper into the meat with more time, and you'll notice the difference in the final flavour.

Trust the reduce. The kulma sauce looks thin after the braise but it concentrates beautifully once you remove the lamb and let it simmer uncovered. Don't serve it straight from the braise — give it 10–15 minutes to become the glossy, rich sauce it's meant to be.

Use good lamb. This dish is built for a quality shank. A well-raised lamb brings a natural sweetness that works with the spices rather than fighting them.

Recipe by Arion Marin (@arionzmarin). Photography by Arion Marin. La Carne lamb shanks are available at lacarne.ph and lacarne.ae.